• Magliano Men's Fall 2019

    10 days ago - By WWD

    The characters of an Andrea Pazienza comic book and Eighties subcultures came to life in this fun Milan debut for Luca Magliano since winning Who Is On Next?, the talent search promoted by AltaRoma with the support of Vogue Italia, in 2017.
    With Magliano exaggerating proportions, the personages went from mafioso types in fake fur coats and socks or piano shirts and broad-shoulder double-breasted pinstripe suits to guys in shrunken sailor silhouettes with grommet details on the pants. The more merch-friendly acts included a school kid dressed in tailored gray denim and a mustard sweater...
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  • Z Zegna Men's Fall 2019

    10 days ago - By WWD

    Innovation was the key word at Z Zegna, where Alessandro Sartori showcased a high-tech, city-living experience. The world of urban cycling inspired the lineup, where a techno vibe resonated not only in the more sporty garments but also in the elegant pieces infused with sartorial attitude. “By controlling the whole supply chain, we are able to innovate from the creation of yarns to the development of the garments,” Sartori said.
    Sleek silhouettes, laser cutting and thermo-stitched details highlighted the high-tech look of the collection. In keeping with the cycling mood, carrot pants...
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  • Biuu Men's Fall 2019

    10 days ago - By WWD

    The Shanghai-based label designed by Wu Hao looked to opposites, outer space and the ancient Mayans for this polished collection of streetwear and tailored clothing. Tracksuits and slim boiler suits came color blocked, with pixel patterns or sparkling panels, while a puffer coat had a wavy optical grid print. Hao's knits and tailored outerwear were standouts, as in a loose orange waffle knit sweater, and another with the image of an astronaut on the back. A dove gray car coat glistened as if it was wet while another, longer one was blindingly bright thanks to a flourish of neon yellow...
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  • Peuterey Men's Fall 2019

    10 days ago - By WWD

    Pueterey embraced innovation for fall. The brand this season relaunched its wellknown Guardian parka, but also experimented with new silhouettes, materials and finishing. For example, it developed a range of minimal thermo-stitched outerwear styles crafted from an innovative multilayer material with a water repellent polyurethane membrane, while the lightweight padding was realized with high-tech PrimaLoft. The sustainable padding also appeared in a revisited down proof jacket, where a stretch jacquard fabric was decorated with graphic quilting. A more classic, outdoor-inspired look was...
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  • Forcerepublik Men's Fall 2019

    10 days ago - By WWD

    Dutch label Forcerepublik - one founder of which is DJ Sunnery James, the other half of Doutzen Kroes - is one to watch in the burgeoning luxe streetwear market, even if the collection, presented to a thumping set in a clublike space in the outskirts of Milan, was hard to see.
    The line was rich in textures and exquisite, tactile, artisanal developments, going from a 3D checked shirt in an exclusive alpaca, cashmere and wool mix to scraggy black hoodies in an irregular knit; wool-cashmere sweaters produced on vintage machines, and cloud cashmere scarves.
    For the trek home at dawn, the...
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  • M1992 Men's Fall 2019

    10 days ago - By WWD

    Memories of his teenage years characterized by frequent trips to London to study English influenced Dorian Tarantini's fall collection. References to the glorious times of Nineties Britpop music defined the distinctive look of the lineup.
    Post-Internet reinterpretations of music personalities of that time, including Liam and Noel Gallagher of Oasis or Blur's front man Damon Albarn, walked the runway staged inside the recently renovated event room of Milan hotel Principe di Savoia, which in the Eighties hosted shows by such labels as Gianfranco Ferré, Krizia and Dolce & Gabbana. In keeping...
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